OwnGrown

Transplanted Brussels Sprouts when about 6″ tall into the final growing site about 2′ apart in holes with pieces of rhubarb leaf at the bottom. Club root disease can be a big problem and using the rhubarb leaf in this way is a very old method of control. I cannot say it definitely works but it has been around for long enough so I assume it does. Another mehod is to add stacks of lime in the autumn. I suspect that other bought methods of control have now been banned as they don’t seem to be available. The wire netting cages shown here (or other protection) are essential if you have a pigeon problem - they love the plants and will totally destroy them if they have a chance.

The runner beans are being gradually thinnned to one per station and the canes for them to climb up have just been put in. These canes must be secure - there is a fair area for wind to blow at when the beans are up to the top and the whole lot will collapse if not secure. A big part of the problem isthe structure collapsing along its length so notice the two canes in the middle providing support / stability in the opposing directions. Another method is a circular wigwam type structure instead of straight as here.

We have been using this since mid May in salads and as a cooked vegetable. These plants are starting to go to seed but they are a very useful quick growing crop at the time of the year just before everything has started to get going properly. In hot weather they will tend to bolt so don’t sow at that time of the year.

It may not seem so at the time but vegetable gardens change rapidly. These two photos were taken at the end of March and end of May. Wire netting enclosures are placed over seedlings to protect them - we seem to have everything that wants to destroy vegetable gardens! Carrots are in the front left with broad beans and peas further behind.

They take a while to get going but we are nearly there and growth is rapid now. it is essential that these are supported well. High winds will flatten them otherwise. In the past I have always allowed them to grow without interference but this year will try pinching out the main stem at about this stage and gradually shortening the laterals on some of the plants. The crop when the plants are eventually allowed to flower is apparantly much greater.

These garlic in the left foreground are two or three weeks away from being pulled up and used / left to dry for later use. Although still a little small, we have started to use them. Chives in flower are in the background - there are also chives elsewhere that have not been allowed to develop flowers but these look attractive and the bees certainly like them.

This is growing really well this year and we are cutting a little over a kilo (2 to 3 lbs) a week. Apart from weeding, there is nothing to be done to the bed until late autumn.

Planted 4 artichoke plants 2.5 - 3′ apart in rich soil to which chicken manure/compost has been added. The artichokes will be cut in the second year - any flowers in this first year will be cut and the plants left to mature.